~Carrier Oil Attributes in Soap and Lotion Making~

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(To see how these oils interact in cold process soap making, enter them here in the lye calculator.)

Almond Oil, Sweet

Sweet almond oil comes from the edible almond. It makes a wonderful moisturizing bar of soap when mixed with other oils. It saponifies easily and yields a mild soap with good lather. It will turn rancid quickly if not refrigerated or kept in a cool, dark place.  We add ROE at 1% to extend the lifetime (slow down the oxidation.)  Make sure you list it in your ingredients for some people are allergic to almonds.  Almond oil is rich in protein and offers relief for itchy or inflamed skin.  A favorite of massage therapists.  Safflower oil has a higher shelf life because it is very high in Vitamin E.  Safflower oil can be found easily on the grocery store shelf and may be a great alternative when in a pinch for carrier oils.  *See Safflower oil.  To reduce any oils going rancid please see ROE.

Contains protein and is rich in minerals and vitamins. Ability to soften skin and especially beneficial for eczema. Excellent penetrating properties and good for all skin types. Relieves itching, dryness, and inflammation. Conditions and provides stable lather to natural soaps. Anti-inflammatory, anti-itching, and anti-irritant. May be used as 100% base oil.

Aloe Vera Oil

Aloe Vera is renown for its healing properties. Aloe is use for many burn remedies. It is known to penetrate the skin much faster then most other oils. Aloe has been used for many things from anti aging to anti inflammatory pain reliever. It is also believed useful with acne. Normal usage of aloe Vera oil at 5-10% in most soaps, creams, and lotions. 

Apricot Kernel

Avocado Oil

This oil is expressed from fruit and has been used in cosmetics for a long time. The oil is more difficult to locate than other oils but can be found in food specialty stores or health food stores. Avocado oil will make soaps rich and very emollient. It contains vitamins, protein, lecithin and fatty acids which make it beneficial for people with dry skin or eczema.  Avocado oil has a high percentage of unsaponifiables, making it an excellent choice to super fat your cold process soap with. It is wonderful in massage oil because of its natural vitamins B1, B2 and A. This oil is cold pressed.  Avocado oil, as well as Sesame oil are known to have sunscreen properties, therefore we make much use of these oils in our lip balms and lip jellies.

Babassu Oil

Original Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil  Babassu oil comes from the tall Babassu palm tree native to Brazil. The oil is extracted from the kernel and is very high in essential fatty acids.  Babassu Oil has been noted to be almost as good as the more expensive Borage Oil (Star Flower) oil and great for healing itchy and dry skin. 

Bee Pollen Oil***

One of our absolute favorite oils.  Bee Pollen oil yields a beautiful orange color, has well known healing properties as well as being naturally anti-microbial and antibacterial.  The nourishment we obtain from bee pollen oil,  by far exceeds the properties of any other oils we use in our labs.  Therefore, we make many things for our families with this oil, including balms, lotions and salves.  We do not use any preservatives when using this oil, and never have seen any storage issues. However, that is our decision, and we do not recommend you skip preservation just because we do.  Our cold pressed carrot oil, or Black Cumin Oil would be the only other oils to rival the Bee Pollen, but still, we feel nothing comes close to Bee Pollen oil for nourishment.    

Black Cumin Oil

Black cumin oil, also known as black caraway oil is not black.  But it is highly regarded by many as a panacea and may therefore not be taken seriously by some, but for those inclined to dismiss folklore, it should be noted that these humble seeds have been found superior to almost every other natural remedy when used for autoimmune disorders, conditions in which patients suffer greatly because their own systems attack their bodies. Black cumin, especially when combined with garlic, is regarded as a harmonizer of the imbalance which allows immune cells to destroy healthy cells. The technical language to describe this property is "immunomodulatory action." The difference between black cumin and interferon is that there are no known side effects with black cumin when administered in normal dosages. The saying goes that the beauty of black cumin is their capacity to restore harmony.

The most dramatic results are achieved with asthma and allergies. These respond relatively quickly unless there is infection, in which case, the infection needs to be eliminated before the symptoms of immune weakness subside. Continued use for six months or longer tends to give outstanding results. For extreme fatigue, consider mixing some crushed seeds with some royal jelly.

Borage Oil

Borage (Borago officinalis) Obtained from the seed of Borago officinalis, which grows abundantly in the Mediterranean region, Central Europe and Asia. Has an extremely high gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important function in the body, especially the skin. Borage oil also has the highest known content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. These are great skin conditioners. They regulate the hydration of the skin and are humectants.

Carrot Oil, Cold Pressed Seed

Carrot Oil is rich in beta carotene, vitamins A & E and pro-vitamin A which helps heal dry, chapped, cracked skin. Carrot oil helps to balance the moisture in our skin and conditions hair. Use at 5 -10% in products for repair and conditioning of skin or hair or at about 2-5% for general moisturizing effects. A good oil for the face.

Castor Oil

Castor oil is expressed from the seed of the castor bean plant. It is well known to make lots of lather.  The oil adds mildness and richness to soap and is most successfully used in superfatting. You can find this oil at local pharmacies.  Castor oil is extracted from the sees of the castor plant. Commonly used commercially in 50% of lipsticks in the United States. Creates a protective barrier on the skin and is soothing. Castor oil is part alcohol and part oil. It is mainly composed of ricinoleic acid (87%), a fatty acid with a unusual molecular structure. Also known as Palm Christi Oil. We find Castor Oil the thickest oil in which to make lip glosses.

Cherry Kernel Oil

A new and fun oil to our line.

Cherry kernel oil contains a polyunsaturated fatty acid called "eleostrearic". Eleostrearic is considered to play an important role in the production of Prostaglandins, which are an important group of hormones that are involved in pain relief mechanisms as wells as controlling cell metabolism. 

Cherry kernel oil also contains natural antioxidants, alpha, delta and gamma tocopherols plus vitamins A & E.  Even though the taste and smell of the refined oil has no resemblance to the actual fruit, it smells and feels great on the skin. 

Cherry kernel oil is used in skin care products, soap making and as salad or cooking oil. Cherry kernel oil can be used as a light, moisturizing oil for lip balms, body butters, salt and sugar scrubs. bath or massage oils as well as soaps and shampoos. It is used in aromatherapy as a penetrating carrier oil too.

With similar properties to sweet almond or peach kernel oils and used in a similar manner, cherry kernel oil is a stable, emollient oil great for soap making.

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa butter is derived from the seeds of the cocoa tree. It improves the overall consistency of soap, making it both creamy and hard. It has wonderful soothing and emollient qualities. It is widely used as a base in cosmetics. Locate this oil with candy making suppliers.  It smells just like dark chocolate.  We love it so much we have a hard time not eating it!

Coconut Oil

This is typically a hard white oil at room temperature.  It is easily made a semi-liquid if the temperate goes above 75 Degrees.  We like this for making lip balm and add a little beeswax to harden.  This oil is the number one oil for soap makers. Used on it's own, it can tend to dry the skin. It yields a creamy lather and medium hard soap.

Coconut Oil, Fractionated

This is the number one oil for true massage type persons.  It is easy to confuse with its sister above which is harder and whiter.  Fractionated Coconut Oil is the coconuts white flesh, processes, yielding oil which is about 90% saturated fatty acid. The fat is heated and the top liquid fraction is removed purifying the oil removing the molds, fungus spores and pesticide residues.

Fractionated coconut oil is a water clear, light textured oil which is odor and tasteless. The cosmetic ingredient name is caprylic/capric triglyceride and it is completely soluble with essential oils. This oil is fine enough to pass through a sprayer making it suitable for perfume and cosmetics requiring a light texture. It can be used as a base or carrier oil for aromatherapy and massage therapy as it penetrates the skin well. It also washes off massage tables easily, is non staining and does not impart a rancid odor on massage sheets rendering it favorite with massage therapists. The molecular structure of the fatty acids gives it an indefinite shelf life. When blended with other oils, this will help extend the final products shelf life.

Emu Oil

We no longer push Emu because it is made from animals in a needless way.  For those who do not agree, it is one of the most expensive but luxurious oils to use.  100% Emu as the lone ingredient makes a very creamy fairly soft bar of soap.  It is naturally opulent appearing to have mica powder in it.  It does take awhile to trace and several weeks to cure, but very much worth it.

Flax Seed (Linum usitatissimum) 

Flaxseed oil is pressed from the seeds of the flax plant. It has a high concentration of omega-3 essential fatty acids. It has a superpolyunsaturated nature and is very unstable. It should be refrigerated until made into product. Commonly used for eczema, psoriasis, burns, inflammatory skin and other skin conditions.

Grape Seed Oil

GRAPE SEED OIL is used extensively in the cosmetics industry for it pleasant emollient properties and compatibility with lotions and surfactants. Its soothing and healing effects on the skin have been appreciated for generations. It is widely used for hair conditioning and styling, imparting a rich silky luster and enhancing hair growth. 

Like Sweet Almond Oil, and most other oils, once it is opened, it has a few month shelf life before it will become rancid.  Air starts the oxidation process.  ROE, (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract) slows down this process.  Click here for Rosemary Oleoresin Extract.

Hazelnut Oil

This oil is gentle, non-greasy, and is recommended for very dry skin. The oil is pressed from hazelnuts and is imported from France. The shelf life on this oil is approximately 3 months. It keeps best in the refrigerator. Our oil is food grade and can be used in salads and baking. This oil is excellent in lotions, creams and facial products and is popular in soap as well. Use it alone as a massage oil or combined with jojoba or sweet almond oil.

Hemp Oil

Hemp seed oil is one of the world's richest sources of polyunsaturated fats, including both of the essential fatty acids (Omega 3 and Omega 6) and GLA (gamma Linolenic acid), which make it an excellent natural emollient and moisturizer. Body care products containing hemp seed oil can reduce skin discomfort by soothing & restoring dry or damaged skin and increasing the natural moisture retention capacity. With regular use, body care products containing hemp seed oil can help slow down the effects of skin aging and leave the skin smooth, soft and moisturized. In hair care products, hemp seed oil imparts gloss and manageability to hair, bringing relief from dry scalp or hair damage by blow-dryer heat, chemical perms, coloring or sunlight.

Jojoba Oil

One of the best all-around natural oils that is a liquid wax ester. Mixes naturally with our skin’s fluids because it contains large quantities of an ester almost identical human sebum, the skin’s natural restorative fluid. Contains anti-oxidants, minerals and vitamins, including vitamin E. Helps make skin soft and silky, and is excellent for inflamed skin, acne, dandruff, eczema and psoriasis. Excellent for hair care and reputed to be a natural wrinkle remover. Acts as an emollient and humectant. It retains skin moisture and does not block the skin’s natural functions while performing is own. Good for massage, jojoba by itself will not stain linens. It does not turn rancid and extends the shelf life of blended oils. In its pure form, jojoba makes a natural suntan lotion with a sun protection factor of 4.

Lanolin

Lanolin is a derivative of sheep's wool and has been used since the recording of history.  The properties of wool How to make your own lanolin hand cream.  Lanolin also has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties that protect the sheep's skin.  Some people adore Lanolin in their products.
 

Macadamia Nut Oil

Similar composition to the human skin for unique lubricating and emollient properties.   The oil, obtained from the nuts of the macadamia tree, contains a high concentration of palmitoleic acid, and is very similar to mink oil and to the sebum of human skin. No other known plant oil has a similar composition.

Neem Oil

Used widely in India as an antibacterial, antiviral. antifungal, antiseptic, antiparasitic agent in toiletries, soap, toothpaste and skin/hair care products. It is used to treat skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, syphilitic sores, chicken pox etc. It can be used to get rid of lice and control dandruff. In toothpaste in helps relieve swollen and bleeding gums and kills the bacteria that cause gingivitis. Neem powder can be used in a foot bath powder to kill fungus and bacteria. Mixed with clay, it makes a great facial for those with acne and other skin problems. Add to liquid soap base for an anti bacterial hand soap. Use in bug repellant lotion bars to keep the bugs away. Use in pet soaps to kill and repel fleas and to treat hot spots. Neem oil can be sprayed on plants to keep insects from devouring the leaves.

Olive Oil

Olive oil makes a very hard bar of mild, gentle, conditioning soap with little bubbles and stable lather. It is slow to trace and is good for sensitive or baby's skin. An important historic oil used extensively in ancient times. Highly nutritive and stable. Contains protein, minerals and vitamins. Superior penetrating power. It is a yellow or greenish. Has acidic and antioxidant values. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables, which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

Palm Oil

Palm oil is extracted from the fruit of the palm tree. It makes a hard bar with stable lather. It hastens trace. It saponifies easily and pulls other oils into saponification more quickly. It should be limited to 20% of the total oils as it may be drying to the skin. If used alone, the resulting soap is brittle with sparse lather.

Palm Kernel Flakes or Oil

Palm kernel flakes or oil, not to be confused with palm oil, makes a hard, cleansing, white bar with fluffy lather. It substitutes well for coconut oil. It makes a smooth textured soap. It traces quickly. If it is less than 25% of your total oils, it will make a moisturizing soap; anything more will make a soap that is too drying.

Peanut Oil

It is a good idea to avoid using peanut oil when making soap because some people are very allergic to peanuts.

Primrose Oil

The primary use of Evening Primrose Oil in skincare is to treat eczema, and itchy, dry, or aging skin conditions which are caused in part by the skin’s lack of ability to produce GLA.  It is also great for PMS so we use it in our lip balms and lip glosses.  

*Pumpkin Seed Oil

(Cucurbita maxima) Native Americans used pumpkinseeds to treat enlarged prostate. Herbalist use it as a nonirritating diuretic. Contains fatty oil, albumin, lecithin and phytosterol.  This is actually a green colored oil, has not been refined, and it is cold pressed.  Our ultra refined pumpkin seed oil is obtained from organically grown, expeller cold pressed method and very nourishing. Great for lotions, lip balms and soaps.  

Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE)

Not a carrier oil, but critical to mention in this section.  Also not to be confused with Rosemary Essential Oil, which is very different.  ROE, what we call it, is a very thick, dark green, black liquid that is a resin from the rosemary plant.  It is excellent used at 1% or a tad more--to mix into carrier oils and butters to help slow down oxidation and extend shelf life by months.  It does not affect the color or smell of your product, but needs to be mixed well. 

Safflower & Sunflower Oils

Safflower oil is another unsaturated oil, so it should be used in combination with palm, coconut, or a similar oil. It is valuable for its moisturizing properties.  VERY high in vitamin e, this is one oil that can be purchased local at your grocer store.  It can be used as a base for lotions, balms and the like.  These oils are rich in vitamin E. Because these oils are high in omega 6 fatty acids and contain no omega 3's, they are less nutritious than canola and flax oils. Even though they contain 90 percent unsaturated fats, they tend to be highly refined oils. Because the high oleic acid variety of these oils is least damaged by heat, they tend to be favorite cooking.

Sesame Oil

Is rich in vitamin A (protects the skin) and vitamin E. It is high in antioxidants that protect against the sun and air pollution. The sterolins in sesame oil are valuable moisturizers and skin conditioning agents.  Sesame oil is also purported to have sun screen properties, as does Avocado oil,  so we also use this oil in our lip balms.  

Shea Butter

Shea butter, also known as African karite butter is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree. It is high in unsaponifiables, so it is great for superfatting. It makes a hard, shiny, and conditioning bar with stable lather. It traces quickly. Use it in 2-5% of your total fats and oils.

Soybean Oil

Makes a nice, hard bar of soap especially when mixed with olive oil and coconut oil.  The ancient Orient cultivated soybeans for its protein, oil and lecithin content. Currently soybean oil is one of the most important oils produced in the United States. It is pressed from the soybean. Most of the lecithin (phospholipids) used in cosmetics are derived from soybeans. Soybean oil has a very high-unsaturated fatty acid compound, 2% sterolins and 30 IU per ounce of vitamin E. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age spots. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

Star Flower Oil (see Borage Oil)

Sweet Almond Oil

Sweet almond oil comes from the edible almond. It makes a wonderful moisturizing bar of soap when mixed with other oils. It saponifies easily and yields a mild soap with good lather. It will turn rancid quickly if not refrigerated. Make sure you list it in your ingredients for some people are allergic to almonds.  Almond oil is rich in protein and offers relief for itchy or inflamed skin.

Sunflower Oil

Has been used as a skin conditioning agent in Europe for many years, but until recently, it has been little-known in North America. It is rich in vitamin E, and is a good source of lecithin (phospholipids) one of the principal components of human cell membranes (the very cell membranes cosmetic products try to protect and rejuvenate).

Tallow

Tallow is rendered beef fat. Suet is the hard fat from around the beef kidneys. Suet is the highest quality tallow. It makes a mild soap that cleans well. It adds hardness to soap. If used alone, it makes a brittle soap with sparse lather.

Turkey Red Oil

Turkey red oil is sulfonated castor oil. It has been processed so it mixes with water more easily. It is not recommended for soapmaking.

Vegetable Shortening

See soybean oil.

Vitamin E Oil

Use Vitamin E in your fixed oils to help slow the oxidizing process or use it in your soap and lotions as a wonderful anti-oxidant. This is a thick, viscous oil that is easy to mix into lotions and liquid oils.

Walnut Oil

Walnut Oil is a wonderful emollient oil which is high in linoleic acid and aids with moisturizing dry damaged skin.  Both Hazelnut and Walnut are deep penetrating, nourishing oils. They have an astringent action which stimulates circulation. They are well suited oils for dry skin and we believe, especially good for use on the feet. These oils are a good source of vitamins A, C, and E.

Wheat Germ Oil

Wheat Germ Oil, extracted from the germ of the wheat kernel, is an emollient with antioxidant properties due to its high, natural Vitamin E content. It also contains Lecithin and a high percentage of essential fatty acids that are vital for healthy skin. It is also used as a natural preservative.  Because it is so high in antioxidants it has a very long shelf life up to one year. 

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